The Teton Crest Trail - Wyoming - Part 13 - Day 4 - Cascade Canyon to Lake Solitude

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Everyone slept pretty well that night - we had a great white noise generator; the cascading snow melt roaring down the mountain side.  I slept the best of any of the nights.  Perhaps it was the hard prior day that did it - but I would like to credit the wonderful waterfall sound.

Unfortunately the next morning dawned with still some dissension in the ranks - Flyrod was hiking out that morning.  I discussed this with him later, once back home, he said he just needed some time alone.  Had a lot of crap going on in his life that needed sorting - and maybe a cold beer with his thoughts.  We were fine with his decision if it made him happy.  Sugar decided to push on with Whitey and I - so there was some benefit to the night's rest.  We would miss Flyrod but we knew he would be fine - a great independent spirit.   Since we were now heading into popular day hike zones and had encountered more hikers than ever before, Flyrod would probably find some other hikers to head down the trail with.   Cheers to you Flyrod - happy trails.

Camp 3 - South Fork Cascade - to Camp 4 - Holly Lake via Paintbrush Divide

Camp 3 at bottom - Camp 4 -Holly Lake at top - over the divide.

Trail ascends the North Fork of Cascade Canyon to Lake Solitude - then up the side of mountain over Paintbrush Divide

Morning Coffee - Jagman

Flyrod traverses a beautifully built bridge over the creek

The cascade of water - leaving the mountain.

The Tetons rise from the morning haze

Whitey transferring the directions to Flyrod - we would part ways here for a couple days

Flyrod either putting in the directions down the canyon - or finding his Lady Gaga hiking music.

So with a condensed team we made our way up the North Fork of Cascade Canyon.   After looking around on our way up toward Lake Solitude, at the camp sites in particular, we are happy we stayed in the South Fork of the canyon - so much nicer.

We encounter a moose cow and her calf under the shade trees.  She didn't really seem to mind we were there - so we just slowly moved along and out of her way.  Lunch awaited up the trail.

Sugar and Whitey - working their way up the canyon.

 

The Tetons looking more and more like a well painted backdrop in a Hollywood set

We arrived at Lake Solitude - the name does not fit anymore - it was kind of busy there.  Day hikers were up from Jenny Lake campsites and people were coming down from a loop trail they took up Paintbrush Canyon.  Still we could not complain.  It was indeed stunning.  We met a group that had been hiking the area - they told us that a marmot had chewed through straps to his backpack - maybe getting the salt from his sweat or trying to get inside for snacks.  Don't leave your gear unattended with these guys around.

We rested up, ate our lunch, and looked over at the snaking trail that was heading up to Paintbrush Divide.  It did not look fun - exposed, steep, and a long ways up.  We pushed on.

Lake Solitude (9,035ft)

Go here next - Teton Crest Trail -Part 14

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The Teton Crest Trail - Wyoming - Part 15 - Day 4 - Holly Lake

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The trip over the top was such a relief from the relentless climb.  It gave us a fresh view of our new destination and challenges.  We managed to score one of the few campsites available at Holly Lake - a picturesque alpine lake at the bottom of Mount Woodring's (11,590 ft) steep mountain face.  The lake was a mile or so away and we could not wait to get there - but we had some descending to do and I actually find it harder on my body than ascending.  From a cardiovascular perspective it is not hard, but the pounding demands on the knees, thighs and ankles builds up to an intensity that make you oddly long to climb again.

The view from the divide was intimidating - barren and treeless.  It seemed very unforgiving and I was a bit apprehensive for the first time.  The trail hugged the side of a mountain promontory and turned sharply back and forth in front to drop altitude.  The tight turns sometimes had rocks jutting out that seemed to seek out weary backpackers who were not paying attention.  The rocks would jump out and try to push you off the trail as they slam into your backpack on the turns.  If pitched off the trail here there would be a long bloody broken tumble to the bottom.

Not surprisingly there was some blood on the rock walls from hiker's bleeding hands or shoulders. Errant crashes onto the rocky trail leaving blood painted on the rocks - is this the origin of the name Paintbrush Divide?  The angels had left us now; alone on our trek down this devilish trail.

The trail over the divide winds down from this promontory onto the loose scree trail below.

Looking for some comfort in this view  - ice, rock and blazing sun

Tiny hikers below

Guardian of Paintbrush Divide - Sir Marmot Whistle Pig

Holly Lake is down there somewhere

Mount Woodring (11,590ft) - peak at the left

Mount Moran (12,605 ft)- with the dark band of rock (the Black Dyke) near the summit.

Whitey admiring the blood on the rocks

Entering the ice zone - Whitey taking a break - "Wish I had an ice axe!!"

Whitey - steady now!

After the ice it was a straightforward affair - down, down, down.  The knees and thighs were screaming but there were enough flat switchbacks to cool down the legs.  We started to get into some green vegetation again - the windswept moonscapes of the 10,000 foot passes were behind us now.

When we rolled into camp - Sugar was already there starting to get out his kit to set up his tent.  As friends do for each other - Sugar was tasked to dig a suitable cat hole for Whitey so he could deal with some personal business right away.  This favor has gone a long way in conversations.  I don't know if it is like taking a bullet for someone - but it never fails to raise a laugh when mentioned - "remember that time you had to dig a ... "

Below Paintbrush Divide - a long ways up

Holly Lake (9,410 ft)

The lakes in the valley - Jackson Lake - far lake -  Lake Leigh - first lake

The painters returned tonight - gorgeous sunset on the streaked walls of Paintbrush Canyon - that must be how it was named

So for our final night on the trail - we gorged ourselves - we had an extra dinner serving without Flyrod so we ate like kings.  Flyrod was probably sitting at the Mangy Moose Saloon in the Teton Village eating a hamburger and fries - not to mention a cold beer or two.  But I think we are the lucky ones to see this spectacular view.  Tomorrow we would head down the mountain and return to civilization. 


Go here next - Teton Crest Trail -Part 16

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The Teton Crest Trail - Wyoming - Part 16 - Day 5 - Epilogue

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Holly Lake to String Lake - our trip down and out of the wilderness

 
It was a quiet night -  still half expecting a bear to visit and sniff around.  After all, by this stage of the trip I was smelling like a salt cured ham.  Since I did not fit into my bear canister - nor did I want to lock myself into the bear vault available at Holly Lake, I laid out in my tent like a fine piece of deli meat - now serving number 4.  The mosquitoes however did find all of us; there were lots around this camp site.  There had been mosquitoes at the other camps, but it was this camp that was the most memorable; we had to wear long sleeves, gloves and fly nets just to keep them away.  We were what seemed to be a mosquito smorgasbord as they never left the all-you-could-drink buffet line - night and morning.

Complaints about the bugs aside - it was a glorious camp site.  I explored the perimeter of the lake and found it remarkably sterile - elevation, cold, and perhaps the lack of birds leaving fish eggs behind produced a lake as calm as I have ever seen.  I was able to capture some iconic pictures that show the lake reflecting perfectly the heavens above.  Occasionally a rock would tumble down the side of the mountain and crash down by the perimeter; adding to the border around the lake.  Maybe it was an ape up on the cliffs warning us to leave.  Where is Nova when I need her?

A very still dawn - hard to tell what is up or down

The sunrise was spectacular as usual.  The camp had a sense of energy to it - we were heading down today.  Back to civilization, cell phones, cars, noise, fat tourists, and the annoying taste of cold beer and hot pizza.  Well, some things aren't so bad.

Whitey was breaking down his kit in the morning light wearing an ensemble from his mosquito deterrence summer fashion line - available at Target as part of the Whitey Collection.  His collaboration with the top marketing experts there will inspire the masses to embrace his life-style goods - Orange Crocs, Fly-netting, and, the very unique wide mouth reservoir bear pot - to attend to your night time animal urges.

Note the totally unrecognizable new image you can create - a life-style brand - The Whitey Collection

We headed out of camp taking the Holly Lake spur trail back to the TCT/Paintbrush Canyon trail.  The view before us for most of the trip down was the spectacular Jackson Lake and Leigh Lake.  They seemed artificially painted onto a Hollywood set - they were so perfectly placed in the valley below.   Some high clouds moved in and cast some shadows over the mountains - perhaps symbolic of our changing moods.  I was kind of sad to be leaving the mountains - I had gotten into a rhythm each day of suffocating and suffering.  The spirit grows under these conditions.

Looks like the tree ate something

We posed for some pictures from a rock that jutted out from the trail.  We still has smiles so that is all that matters.

Sugar and Whitey - heading down

Return of the green and flowers.

Paintbrush Canyon makes us look so small.

As we neared the bottom of the trail - we ran into another ranger.  She said that there was a bear down below us a quarter mile  - she was heading up to the divide - so be careful.  We never did see it, but I guess that is for the best.  I had never seen a bear in the wild before so I was anxious to see one - that would have to wait another year - I saw a black bear running across a trail in VA in the Shenandoah National Park (SNP) - so cool.

What we did see however was a beautiful three mule pack train heading up the trail with supplies for a work camp - so awesome.  The cowboy at the front guided the three mules up the trail behind him with the greatest of ease.  That can't really be a job out here - it just can't.   But let me give a shout out to our sponsors because these trails don't survive on their own for long without some maintenance.  Thank you NPS for taking such good care of this place for all of us.  We left nothing behind and took only our memories.

We met up with Flyrod at the String Lake trail head parking lot - so the gang was back together again.  The lot was packed with tourists - the kind that rarely go 100 yards from their cars, bathrooms, and food vendors; pitiful.  Not my idea of a vacation. 

Flyrod camped out last night like us in the back of the rental car; once a camper always a camper.  He brought with him some essential must haves for us that he knew we would want.  We were going to spoil ourselves and stay at a nice hotel that night in the Teton Village - the Alpenhof.  We were going to drink cold beers and eat a nice meal.  Most important - we were going to take some showers!!

I hope you enjoyed this journey as much as I did telling the tale.  Please leave comments - I would love to hear from you and how you found my adventure on the internet.   Be sure to read the Lost Coast Trail story too.  Another fun adventure.

Let me know if you have any good places you would recommend for our next journey - we are due for one soon.

Cheers,
Jagman, Whitey, Flyrod and Sugar


Back to beginning - Teton Crest Trail - Part 1

The Teton Crest Trail Blog Index- 2013

The Teton Crest Trail - Wyoming - Part 1 - The Gang Returns

The Teton Crest Trail - Wyoming - Part 2 - About town

The Teton Crest Trail - Wyoming - Part 3 - Start - Day 1 - Rendezvous!

The Teton Crest Trail - Wyoming - Part 4 - Day 1 - Rendezvous Mtn to Granite Canyon

The Teton Crest Trail - Wyoming - Part 5 - Day 1 - Camp 1 Granite Canyon North Fork

The Teton Crest Trail - Wyoming - Part 6 - Day 2 - Marion Lake

The Teton Crest Trail - Wyoming - Part 7 - Day 2 - Marion Lake to Death Canyon

The Teton Crest Trail - Wyoming - Part 8 - Day 2 - Death Canyon Sights

The Teton Crest Trail - Wyoming - Part 9 - Day 3 - Death Canyon to Mt. Meek Pass

The Teton Crest Trail - Wyoming - Part 10 - Day 3 - Alaska Basin

The Teton Crest Trail - Wyoming - Part 11 - Day 3 - Alaska Basin to Hurricane Pass

The Teton Crest Trail - Wyoming - Part 12 - Day 3 - Hurricane Pass to Cascade Canyon

The Teton Crest Trail - Wyoming - Part 13 - Day 4 - Cascade Canyon to Lake Solitude

The Teton Crest Trail - Wyoming - Part 14 - Day 4 - Lake Solitude - Angels on Paintbrush Divide

The Teton Crest Trail - Wyoming - Part 15 - Day 4 - Holly Lake

The Teton Crest Trail - Wyoming - Part 16 - Day 5 - Epilogue