Saturday, September 24, 2011

Part 9 - The Lost Coast Trail - Day 1 - Punta Gorda Light to Sea Lion Gulch

START HERE - THE LOST COAST PART 1

... continued from part 8


The next section of the trail was where it really gets interesting.  On the trail map provided by BLM, there were sections of the trail that are marked impassable during high tide.  It was after 1PM in the afternoon and we had about 4 hours until high tide.  Basically it was coming in and we had to hustle.  Seems foolish really - this is not something to mess around with.  Do not try this at home - Mother Nature is a Bitch.  I don't personally think so - but I saw that on a T-shirt once and thought it was funny.   But she is pissed off - Sandy the superstorm kind if says that.   Anyway, I digress.  The points marked in red below represent the start and end points for this post.  I recently discovered I could get Google Earth running on my new laptop so I was excited to embrace the new imagery.
Punta Gorda to Sea Lion Gulch
Heading SE from the Punta Gorda light, the Lost Coast trail takes a nice welcome turn inland to a trail that rides along the top of the cliff wall; off the sand and the difficult footing of the beach.  I can't tell you how many times I tripped on kelp whips that washed up on the beach. 

Hey...wait for me
Gone
Long way down.
The ridge trail can be somewhat intimidating at times.  One trip at the edge and over you go.  The ride down to the beach would be spectacular.  The bear canister in my pack would really keep me bouncing as it acts like a nice air bag spring.  My cooking kit would provide the musical soundtrack - clang - clang - clang.  I think I need more cowbell.  Then the finish on the rocks would be short lived as a big ice cold wave would take me out to Davy Jones' Locker.   Brrrrrr.

Great sunning rock for the birds
We were like Mountain Goats
Finally got ahead of the boys
We spent the next hour or so working our way around the ridge - Mountain Goat Style.  Careful footing was a must.  The temps we up from earlier and it was very comfortable.  And the view from up here was beyond spectacular.  No development for as far as you could see - oceanfront property and not a boardwalk or Thrasher's Fry to be found.  Love it!!
Here the ocean was so blue and calm.  Just a short while ago, near Punta Gorda, the ocean was much rougher as the wind had whipped it up and slammed it into the shore.  Here we were on the lee side so it was mild and perfect.
Here we are...over here.
Are we there yet?
Back down - Sea Lion Gulch
Our adventure as goats came to an end and we left the ridge trail to head back down to the beach via Sea Lion Gulch.  As I mentioned earlier, the beach has a "kill zone" if you don't get past it in time.  You can't climb up and you can't outrun the waves.  Based on the last pic - you can see the tide is up and we have an hour or two to get past the rough spot.  It is like a Johnny Quest episode - we have to grab the rare jewels and make it back before the ocean reaches us.  Oh yeah!!



Up Next - Part 10 - The Lost Coast Trail - Day 1 Sea Lion to Randall Creek



Part 10 - The Lost Coast Trail - Day 1 - Sea Lion Gulch to Randall Creek

START HERE - THE LOST COAST PART 1

... continued from part 9
Sea Lion Gulch (red dot) upper left  - to Cooksie Creek (red dot) bottom right
Without the moon, the Earth would not experience the tides that move the ocean water up and down every twelve and a half hours.  And lovers would invariably have to gaze up at something else as they proclaim their everlasting love for one another.  'Tis pity the latter.   The ocean is essentially bullied by the moon as it pushes and pulls the water as it orbits the Earth.  Because the mountains of the Lost Coast tumble into the ocean at this point of the hike, and the high tide waves crash directly up on the worn unstable cliffs (with no escape upward), the prudent hiker will be sure to get past this point before peril changes their life's direction for good.
Lucky for us, and of course good planning, the tide was not fully in and we had a couple more hours before passage was totally cut off.  Timing aside, there were the occasional rogue waves that would give us a moment of pause to observe the ocean power.  There were other areas that really produced a bit of inward pucker in the nether regions between our legs.  We got really good at the run and dash - plus counting to One Mississippi, Two Mississippi, Three Mississippi...NOW!!!  These mad dashes were also a lot of fun because the rocks we ran on were like a field of wet bowling balls.  With 40lbs on your back, it was an incredible right of passage.

Wet bowling ball challenge.
Hmm...need good timing on this one
Making our way slowly
One of the most beautiful sounds you will every hear, is the sound of the water returning back into the ocean across these rocks.  Each rock will bump into the rock next to it producing a deep muffled gurgle as the receding wave tries pulling them back into the sea.  The sound's pitch gets higher, and more frantic, as the smaller, more worn rocks are pulled rapidly back down toward the ocean with the returning wave.  It is magical.  I get a little misty eyed as I think of this sound - pure natural beauty.

We made Cooksie Creek around 3PM which is the traditional first night stop for lots of hikers.  It has great fresh water and lots of well sheltered camp sites inland.  Our friends (Kim and Theresa) from the previous night stopped here and we had a brief reunion as we refilled our water bottles.  We had another hour or so to get to our camp site - Randall Creek. 

Me climbing for a view
Flyrod - reflections at Cooksie Creek
Gone with next wave - not memories.
Cooksie Creek to Randall Creek - 1st night camp.

San Andreas signs - there were lots of these through this section
More wet bowling balls - Whitey and Flyrod - Randall Creek around point
Just around the corner - Camp 1  Randall Creek
Just after Cooksie Creek, I could really start to see signs of the fault line (San Andreas is just off shore) and the torture the rocks experience as a result.  It was fascinating to see.  I was still hoping to feel an earthquake, but so far it had been pretty quiet.  I have a bunch more pictures of the cool rock formations growing out of the sand, but I will not bore you with them.
The last shot above reminds me of the final scene of the 1968 - Planet of the Apes.  The one where Charlton Heston has the comely wench Nova  - you know she can't talk!? - on the back of his horse.  If you look close - you can just make out a point from the crown on the Statue of Liberty....made you look!

Up Next - Part 11 - Camping at Randall Creek - Chicken Carbonara!!  Whitey Gear Review.

Part 11 - The Lost Coast Trail - Day 1 - Randall Creek Camping

START HERE - THE LOST COAST PART 1

...continued from part 10

Getting to our first campsite after a day of hiking was fantastic. I think we originally were trying for Spanish Flat, but seeing Randall Creek and the perfect campsites - we stopped. The campsites here are located up on a bluff overlooking the ocean - like expensive Malibu Beach homes. Down below the bluff, where the creek enters the ocean, is a perfect area for our kitchen to cook tonight's meal. Tomorrow it will be the setting of a Danse Macabre for Whitey. Stay tuned!!
Randall Creek
Randall Creek Sunset
Flyrod and Whitey setting up
Each one of us took to the quiet task of assembling our tents and getting things ready. The sun was slowly quenching itself in the Pacific and setting up our shelters now before dinner was a wise decision. Similar to building a huge house of cards, the tiny packages that were hidden in our packs, were pulled out and turned into elaborate nylon and shock-cord rod structures, complete with windows and skylights. Camp chairs were assembled, our girlfriends were blown up - or rather Big Agnes was - the mother of comfort. Nobody wants to be uncomfortable so our inflatable air mattresses, Big Agnes brand, were blown up to keep us comfortable for the night. I love Big Agnes. What were you thinking? The next greatest thing after making camp, was taking off our hiking boots. To hear men groaning with delight as they have their 'shoe-gasms' became a pretty common sound before dinner each night - sometimes even at lunch; a nooner.
Randall Creek bluff
Best site ever!
Whitey down in the kitchen - left
After the camp was setup, I took a solitary walk on the beach to look for small pieces of drift wood for us to build a cozy beach fire. I went barefoot down to the water's edge so I could feel the Pacific ocean again; kissing the feet that once played in her so many years ago. Anticipating the soft embrace of my long lost love, the first wave washed in and covered my sore feet. I screamed..."Mother%$#*&@ that is cold!!" I quickly walked back out and looked for wood - the romance was over.
Prior to taking this trip, I did some trial runs of some of the freeze dried meals that I could take along. The Pad Thai sounded good and easy - but it was crap. Seemed really salty and just took forever to get the taste out of my mouth. So, I decided since I am a bit of a chef, I will create the nightly meals that are fresh and flavorful - yes they weigh more than the dried stuff - but so what. For tonight, Chicken Carbonara over Angel Hair Pasta. It is easier than your think. Recipe below - enjoy!



Lost Coast Chicken Carbonara
(Serves 3-4)
2- 7oz pouches of White Chicken Chunks
1- 1.5oz package of powder Alfredo Mix
2 tablespoons Minced Dried onions
1 teaspoon pepper - more or less
1 teaspoon garlic powder - more or less
1 teaspoon dried basil leaves - more or less
2 tablespoons bacon bits
2/3 cup of dried milk
1.5 tablespoons of olive oil - put in 'new' travel shampoo bottle
8 ozs of Angel hair pasta
What to do at home:
First 1 Quart Ziploc bag - break Angel Hair Pasta in half and close.
Second 1 Quart Ziploc bag - Pour Alfredo Mix and all dry ingredients.
Third 1 Gallon Ziploc bag - place unopened Chicken packages and Olive Oil container. Then place the 2 quart bags in the big gallon bag. Now you have a dinner package.
What to do at camp:
You will need two pots - two stoves running is even better. In one pot, get the sauce going first. Add contents of second bag and olive oil to about 4 cups of water. Get simmering - adding more water as needed. Then add chicken and stir to thoroughly warm and coat the chicken - make sure you have some liquid sauce - add more water if needed.
Set aside and cover first pot, or keep warm on stove, then start second pot of water boiling for pasta. Add pasta - stir for 4-7 minutes - drain if needed. If you are using just one stove - reheat if needed the sauce pot.
Now the fun - place pasta on plates and add the chicken sauce. Delicious!!
WHITEY GEAR REVIEW:
GoLite Jam 50 Backpack
There is something to be said about the saying "less is more". Hemingway wrote very simplistically, and yet his words carried a lasting impression. If my gear reviews could influence people with the same reach as Hemingway to spread the word of lightweight packs, I'd be a success too (and perhaps a salesman for GoLite).
If you have been backpacking / hiking for a couple years and you are looking to add lightweight multiday pack into the REI gear room of your house, this is the perfect pack. The GoLite Jam 50 at 1.785 pounds, weighs 2.37 cans of your favorite beer less than the average 50L bag. (See graphic: The average weight of a 50L pack that I could find at REI was 3.5625 pounds -Comparing a medium to medium). This top loading bag has an easy access pocket on the backside of the bag that can hold your snack bars while the side pockets can carry your 2.37 cans of beer.
I took it on a 4 day trip in Northern California in bear country where I was required to have a bear canister while hiking the lost coast and into the King Range. As with any decision in life, there are tradeoffs.
The light weight is made possible by a light rip-stop fabric.Because of that, you need to be careful when sitting down a heavy pack and also when picking it up, making sure not to grab it just by a single shoulder strap. I likely had the weight at its capacity (not sure what my final pack weight was). After my four days of setting it down on the ground or resting the pack on the rocky terrain, the bottom of the pack was showing signs of wear. It almost looked like small mouse nibbles on the bottom side of the pack. Having known that now, I would still buy the pack but be very careful with it. A good suggestion for GoLite would be to reinforce the base of the pack with a second layer of their fabric or chose a slightly heavier fabric for this purpose. All in all, a great lightweight pack...and I'm a picky gearhead.
Volume:3050 in3, 50 L
Maximum Recommended Load:30 lbs, 14kg
Spine Length:Small 15.5"-17.5" (39.4 cm-44.5 cm); Medium 17.5"-19.5"(44.5 cm-49.5 cm); Large 19.5"-21.5" (49.5 cm-54.6 cm)
Hip Belt Length:Small 26"-45.5" (66 cm-115.6 cm); Medium 29"-48" (73.6 cm-121.9 cm); Large 33"-54" (83.8 cm-137.2 cm)
Weight:1 lb 14 oz. | 850 g (Medium)
Next - Part 12 - The Lost Coast Trail - The Danse Macabre

Part 12 - The Lost Coast Trail - Day 2 -The Danse Macabre

START HERE - THE LOST COAST PART 1

...continued from part 11

When you’re a kid, the domain of monsters is usually reserved to the typical places - under the bed, in the closet, in the basement or in gym class where Karl Koslowski reined supreme; he being the dumb over-sized farm boy who had been held back a few years.  Looking at a map of our house in Montana, it looked almost like those old world maps, the kind with the dragons, sea serpents, and scary looking mountains in place of the unknown around the edges.  We lived at the base of ‘Rattlesnake Mountain’, twelve miles North of Helena, Montana (next home after Cali).  A few miles to our Northeast, the intimidating sounding ‘Gates of the Mountains’ wilderness area and ‘Wolf Creek’.  There were other notable landmarks to keep us kids from going too far from home, ‘Rattlesnake Gulch’, ‘Beartooth Mountain’, ‘Sleeping Giant Mountain’, ‘Devils Tower’, ‘Slaughter Pen Gulch’ and twenty other places where flying monkeys surely must live.  But now, on the Lost Coast trip, we encounter a real monster.
That night at Randall Creek was very quiet, at least until 3AM when a powerful blast of wind came roaring in off the ocean.  The other guys did not feel it, but my tent nearly blew itself off the bluff - I didn't bother to stake it down because it was so calm when I set up and the forecast was for the same.  I held on for an hour, afraid to leave as my tent would surely cartwheel off into the dark without my fat ass inside.  Just as suddenly as it came up, it was gone.   During that time I heard our pots and pans clang around in the kitchen down below.  Was it a bear?
At dawn I was first up - I love sunrise and the color spectrum so I hoped to get some good pictures.   I noticed the only damage to my tent was bent top support rods.   And the pans below in the kitchen were only scattered about, but fine.
Sunrise (click to enlarge)
Morning waves - looking South
Misty Lost Coast
The other guys got up and we started to break down our tents - lucky for us the air is so dry there was no dew to contend with.  Big Agnes gets let go first as she is slow to leave in the morning.  Just pull her plug and she hisses at you as you walk away.  Great sleeping pads those are.
I continued to snap away at pictures, doing some artsy study on a yellow flower - I wanted to capture it slowly opening in the morning sun (I won't bore you with it).
Flyrod was up on the bluff brushing his teeth looking out over the ocean and spotted some whales surfacing.  He yelled to us with his mouth frothing like Old Yeller.  But how cool is that?!   I struggled to get a picture - basically I got a nice shot of the empty ocean - but I tried.  Whitey took to the task of getting the kitchen ready for oatmeal and coffee - that boy is always hungry.
Morning glow -West - awesome!!
Randall Creek
Whitey and Flyrod in the kitchen
During breakfast we discussed today's hike.  It was going to be a long one.  Our goal was make the next camp some 15 miles distant and near the end, pitch up a 3400ft vertical gain.  It was ambitious and there would be pain.  We would turn inland at Miller Flat and head toward our third day goal of Kings Peak (4088ft).  Remembering the map of my days in Montana, this map had Rattlesnake Ridge and Bear Hollow - our campsite for the night - wonderful.
Flyrod and I broke down the rest of our kit and packed our bags.  Whitey had gotten a jump on us by doing this already so he was getting some rest looking at the map down by the kitchen.  Since the trail left from the campsites topsides, we left our bags up there and went down to see what Whitey was doing.   As we headed down the path, Flyrod casually says, "Whitey, hey, there is a large snake heading toward you."  Being the laid back dudes we all are, Whitey responded, "Sure there is."  Of course I confirmed what Flyrod said adding to the age old joke among guys trying to fuck with the other guy, like "Hey, your girlfriend was over at Joe's last night." --- No way.--- Other guy --- "Yeah man, she was, sorry."   It was textbook.  This time however we were not joking.  There was a big snake.  A Crotalus oreganus and it was heading towards Whitey's Organ-anus area. Of course I took a picture.

Say hello to my little friend
Flies are the least of your problems
Snake, "OMG these boots are ripe!"
Almost gone
Salvation
Do not try this at home.
The snake, a Northern Pacific Rattlesnake (Western Rattlesnake) decided to spend some time behind Whitey.   It was a real beauty.  As you can see from the pictures it basically hung out under the log behind Whitey's back then climbed up over his boots and out under his legs.  Like Elmer Fudd says - "Be wery wery quiet..."
We were happy it all ended well for everyone.  The snake is back at work catching mice and stuff. And Whitey gets the award for having nerves of steel.  I would have screamed like a little girl and truly tested the 30-day Astronaut underwear I had on !!

On with the hike!!

NEXT PART 13 - Randall Creek to....

Part 13 - The Lost Coast Trail - Day 2 - Spanish Flat to Miller Flat


START HERE - THE LOST COAST PART 1
 
Story continued from Part 12 - The Danse Macabre
So after the morning's drama - we all survived - Whitey did not even have to change his shorts - we climbed up to the trail above the beach and continued down the coast in the glorious sunshine. It was going to be a warm day. As mentioned before, we are now in the concave curve of the coast that was not cooled by a breeze off the ocean. The morning was fine - still cool - but later we would have to enjoy the smell of baked kelp whips and the hot air blasting off the sand up under our hats. The scenery was of course fantastic. As we came onto Spanish Flat, a nice firm flat trail below Spanish Ridge, we found ourselves surrounded by wonderful yellow flowers, the California Poppy, that welcome the new day and us with their splendor. It was like Dorothy and the clan of misfits heading to Oz on a yellow brick road. I won't need a heart or courage, but maybe I can ask the Wizard for some mole skin when we get there, I feel a hot spot on my heal. 














As we headed down to a creek bed to take a break and get some shelter from the sun, we saw more signs of the fire that had ravaged the flat and hillside earlier in the year. The flat was clearly charred from the fire, but the Poppies appear to thrive in the reconfigured landscape - like pine cones that only release their seeds when under extreme heat from fire. To me, it always seems that California is under constant assault from the elements...and actors turned politician.
Spanish Flat fire - July 2011 - (I read the couple that started this were charged $143,000)



Fire burned up the hillside too
Today was going to be a hard push - a total of 14 miles for the day. We are going to try for Bear Hollow campsite way up off of Miller flat. This camp was four miles and a few thousand vertical feet into the mountains from the beach. In hindsight this was too much - but what could we do? We originally planned to camp on Spanish Flat but stopped early at Randall Creek - so the miles get added to the next day. Of course we would pay for it - me more than the others. I think I would have asked the Wizard for more than mole skin had I known.
After our break we entered a section I call the bone collector or EZ Bake Oven - it was hot, dry, and was turning the driftwood into bleached bone replicas from some large sea monster; one that would clearly cause unspeakable horror to beach goers if it existed. But after this section, we knew we were closer to Miller flat and our eastward turn into the mountains. We would climb on the much revered Rattlesnake Ridge trail - a sawtooth switchback of a mother that would do some damage. 





 
There are bears coming down out of this creek area.










Miller flat is a little over 7 miles from the end of the Lost Coast trail at Shelter Cove. Lots of folks will hike out from Shelter Cove to camp overnight here and then return the next day. Sounds like a great time. Here the trail leaves the beach and heads up to the ridge to slice off the large flat that is actually much bigger than I thought it would be.
Climb up over to Miller Flat




Randall Creek to Spanish Flat

Spanish Flat to Miller Flat



Part 14 - Rattlesnake Ridge - Belly of the Beast